As if my original plans weren’t ambitious enough would you believe that I decided to add more projects to my workload? If you said yes you probably know me pretty well. I have added a bycocket to my list of accessories and a new dress to my sewing list for Birka. Good news though, the bycocket is already done! Not long after I decided to make it I had purchased four 12″ x 18″ sheets of wool felt in two colors and started in on construction.
I got the general idea of shape from Honor Before Victory’s blog post 14th Century Embroidered Bycocket. I decided to use two colors of wool felt. Firstly because I wanted a contrasting lining, and secondly it would be much sturdier than a single layer. My color choices were fairly limited but there just happened to be two sheets of medium purple and two sheets of pumpkin orange left at the store. Purple and orange are my favorite colors, easy choice.
Here is my paper pattern with the cut felt pieces. I taped two sheets of paper together long-side by long-side, made a second sheet the same way, and drew out my desired shape. I then cut the shape out of both sheets, taped the curved edges together like a seam, folded the bottom up into a brim, and adjusted the curve of the top until I got the fit and shape that I wanted with the paper “hat”. The brim then got folded back down and there was my pattern piece!
The liner color (purple) I used a whip stitch for the seam, the outer color (orange) I used a blanket stitch. It really does not seem (haha) to make much of a visual difference. The whip stitch uses less thread but the blanket stitch is sturdier.
After seaming each layer I stitched the two seams together so that the layers wouldn’t shift around when the hat was being worn. The orange layer then got turned to the outside and the brim folded up. I used cotton embroidery floss to sew the brim edges together with a blanket stitch. If I hadn’t wanted to get the project done so soon and had a larger budget I would have bought some silk thread online instead.
Overall the bycocket took a total of perhaps 4 1/2 hours and I spent less than $2. I think I’ll be purchasing a brooch for the brim but that will still come in under $1o!